Franconia Ridge

To get here, I took a ferry to get across Lake Champlain and then had the absolute pleasure of driving through Vermont as the sun was setting.  Though beautiful, I struggled to find food that wasn’t from a gas station or from a high-class restaurant.  I eventually settled for beer and Cheez-Its from a gas station.  It was far from the nourishment I was seeking for another tough hike the next day.

The beers were probably a mistake because I did not get up until 7 the next morning and did not finish my shower and breakfast until a couple hours later.  I did not get out of the campsite till well after 9 in the morning.

The first thing I noticed (and it was hard not to) approaching the trailhead was just how insanely crowded this hike is.  I saw lines and lines of cars.  You could swear the Red Hot Chili Peppers were playing there.  I couldn’t imagine that all those cars was for this hike, but they were.  I read this was a popular hike, but I had no idea the scale of how popular.  Many license plates were from Canada, and indeed I was not too far from Montreal.  I had to park a good half mile away to get to the starting point.

The scene at the trailhead was just jarring.  Dozens and dozens of people as far as the eye could see.  Most of these parties were large groups.  Though new to me, it’s obvious this hike was a significant draw.  I decided to jog the first section of this just to get past the slowpokes.  There were throngs of amateur hikers and I was not exactly amicable when passing them.  I say this not to brag, but it became apparent just how much more experienced I am compared to the average person.  I literally pass hundreds of people within the first twenty minutes.

It is wonderfully scenic on the way up.  There were many waterfalls and streams.  Many more than your average hike.  I also notice that it was a much harder climb than Mt. Marcy the day before.  Though this hike had less distance and elevation, its elevation gain occurs in a much shorter time.  I can see why this hike was so popular.

The crowd thins out considerably the higher you go.  The adrenaline rush of passing so many people was kind of addicting and had me practically sprinting up the first couple miles.  It was only once approaching the treeline did I start to feel the first pangs of exhaustion.  Still, my early, fast progress had me up the first mountain (Mt. Little Haystack) in only an hour and a half.

There was a park ranger atop Mt Little Haystack, who seemed to be babysitting the amateur hikers getting too close to the edge or stomping on alpine flora.  The previous year, I had difficulty traversing the Crawford Path on the Presidential Range of the same mountain system.  I was glad that this ridge was much more friendly as it did not dip as far down in elevation between summits and the terrain was much less rocky.

The walk north was immersed with beautiful views.  The only thing that spoiled it for me was how crowded it was.  Of course, one can’t be angry about that because they contribute to the problem simply by being there.  I hike, though, partially to find solitude and there is absolutely none to be found here.

Other hikers, though, are a good group of people.  One can’t be in a bad mood hiking unless they were brought against their will.  So, I couldn’t complain too much.  One game I like to play is to find the hikers like me who also like to make a good time as they enjoy themselves in the wild.  They are the ones I constantly see throughout the day as I pass them or they pass me.  We give each other subtle signs of acknowledgement and share unspoken competition and camaraderie.

I summit Mt. Lincoln with relative ease.  I decide to stop for lunch at the most secluded spot I could find before the final ascent to Mt Lafayette.  I only had a dozen people near me so it was about as isolated as I could find.  Still, it was very peaceful and beat any lunch in the city.

I stayed on top of Mt Lafayette much longer than I needed to.  I think part of me knew that once I completed the descent, I’d have to start going back to the Washington DC area – something I wanted to delay.  The descent, though, presented a surprising challenge.  It was very rocky with lots of inclined slippery rocks to step across.  I, in fact, had a spill where I landed hard on my hip and rolled over a couple times.  Because of this, I exercised an abundance of caution and it took a couple hours to get down.

As I went down, I saw other hikers ascending Mt Lafayette going clockwise on the route.  They looked absolutely miserable and exhausted.  I imagine they were envious of me because I had the luxury of going down.

Once below treeline, the path became less rocky and more traditional.  I was able to jog the last portions and in less than 5 hours since starting, I was back to my car to begin the long drive back to Maryland.  While I thought the Franconia Ridge was spectacular, I’m not a fan of the massive crowds.  I believe I’d come back, but it would have to be on a weekday and during an off-peak time.